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NigelStu last won the day on December 31 2016

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  1. This thread makes me think that 'enginerd' and 'Hi_I'm_Will' need to trade names.
  2. I don't think it was Tyler that snagged this one....
  3. Reviewing the video again, rod exposed end looks to be in about the correct height, and is facing about where you'd expect a slightly bent rod to be facing. The valve would have done all the damage to the piston. So, step 1 - valve broke. Step 2 - destruction. Step 3 - profit..... Question would be WHY did the valve break. Doesn't take long for even a very minor bend in the stem to break the head off: think of how many times the valve leaves and returns to the seat in 1 minute when you are running the engine at 4-6K RPM.... With uneven pressure, it doesn't take long to break one. I would expect an assembly issue or possibly a part failure not related to assembly. As Will stated, based on how the head was set down, there is potential head was set down in the same manner during assembly and pre-bent a valve. Valve was already bent from something else before install Rocker clearance too tight, allowed valve to just barely contact piston (doesn't take much) valve keeper not installed correctly (probably not, otherwise failure would have occured sooner) towers/head shaved and or CAM out of spec on lift and clearances not checked rocker broken, stuck valve open (hard to tell in video, but it doesn't look like any of the rockers are broken/out of place) valve seat not installed fully, came loose or was not pressed in far enough which makes starting point of valve further in the cylinder Spark plug electrode or some other foreign object got in there, valve closed on it. timing was off, belt jumping a tooth (not likely, would expect more carnage)
  4. How are the rocker arms? And rod caps?
  5. Sounds like you have too soft of a spring in the back. What is your spring setup front and rear? Either cut? What kind of cell and what was your mounting structure? (curious about the total weight difference from stock tank to cell) FR/RR ride height can be used to adjust handling characteristics (assuming no bottoming out or full jounce on either end). If the attitude of the car is relatively lower in the rear (looking at the chassis, not wheel arches) it can move grip balance to the rear (this is really about weight balance and transfer). Similar ride height at pinch weld worked well for my team. Moving the battery could help some, but you should be able to fix this with some suspension changes.
  6. Does the handling get better as the fuel load goes down? I will add in - where in the turn are you getting understeer? Need details like: entry, mid, exit, power-on, power off, high-speed, low-speed, etc. Did you change anything else when you put in the cell?
  7. Out of curiosity, why were the max weights used for this? (this question is aimed toward ChumpStaff). Using the low-end of the weight range (or at least median weights) is both closer to actual race weight but also takes out some of the advantage that the high-contented luxury vehicles have. Lower weights would help to control some of the speed-creep too.
  8. Anyway... Fiberglass and Fiber-Reinforced Plastic fall under 'plastic', which seems to be a valid/reasonable point gain at 3 / sq ft (much easier to shape/mold something fiberglass than wood, and can provide good strength/rigidity). Seems to me that the point structure should change. I would like to see: Wood/plastic/metal sheet - 2 pt / sq foot fiberglass/FRP - 3 pt / sq foot Metal tubing - 5 pt / linear foot 3D plastic/FRP/Metal printed stuff - 5 pts / ?? (lb?) Carbon fiber / Kevlar - 10 pt / sq foot.
  9. What are tarps made out of? Oh yeah.... "Made of woven polyethylene, tarps are weather and tear resistant, UV lamination, heat-sealed sea...." " Polyethylene or polyethene is the most common plastic." That whole thing was a complete and total Tech FAIL. Any team running 'tarps' over window openings should have been charged the 3 points/sq ft for plastic.
  10. I take your no-descriptive picture and I add comparative dimension to it... 205 on 6.5" vs 245 on 9"
  11. First, make sure all your suspension moves freely as it should (fix the binding), then test to find out works best. I never raced with the rear bar in my car. Car was faster without it. That was with an older, slipping diff, so much of the time lost was due to the bar picking up the inside tire. Possibly with a fresh rebuilt (or welded) diff, and fancy aero, leaving the rear bar on could be faster.
  12. Are the LE5 and LA1 #s 'dressed' same way as your rotary #? That car should be wicked with torque.
  13. Track days / Open Track Days / High Performance Drive Education, etc are all good for getting seat time and working on testing / improving the car. Autocross is also a good way to work on certain aspect of the car and to hone some driver skill. To get beneficial driver improvement, make sure the OTD/HPDE you pick has some decent instructors available that can help guide you in the right direction. Or go baller-status and hire a professional instructor to work with your team for a day to at least get a strong baseline established. Remember that practice doesn't make perfect, only perfect practice makes perfect. Pounding out lap after lap can be fun, but will ingrain whatever actions you take into your subconscious. Make sure you are making the right actions. In your area, I know the AutoInterests group runs HPDEs with solid group of instructors. They run at PittRace which is probably closest track to you.
  14. Having run an E30 for a number of years: Check/monitor front wheel bearings. $125 a pop. I replaced them at a higher frequency that other teams do now, I also had a few fail on track before increasing the replacement frequency. Stick some new wheel bearings on all around if you don't know the history. Check guibo (rubber donut that attaches drive-shaft to trans), and CSB (center support bearing) for rubber integrity. Passenger side stock rubber engine mounts like to pull apart (partially due to proximity to exhaust), which cause all sorts of problems if not caught in time. Pre-88 cooling systems have an upper radiator hose that runs stupidly close to the alternator. Keep the rocker arms adjusted within spec. And check them every few races to check for cracks. Check front suspension bushings and rear subfram/arm bushings. Second on the oil system. Need to do what you can to keep oil down in the pan instead of flowing up the leaned engine side. Then, run the crap out of it and have fun.
  15. VPI includes Monte Carlo is as well as Venture. So that covers the range in power from what I can tell... From spot checking on the weights, I agree some appear to be off and on the high side. Now time to close out this year with some fun. Party time. Happy New Years everyone. Stay safe, reflect back about the things you enjoyed and are important to you and see you on the other side!