NigelStu

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NigelStu last won the day on December 31 2016

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About NigelStu

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  1. Vinyl application is one of those things where the larger the decal you are applying, the less beer should be consumed. Few drops of mild dish soap in an entire bottle of water is key to making larger panels go on smoothly. Windex appears to work just as well (for easy positioning and bubble/wrinkle removal), except that windex has a tendency to relieve the glue of its sticking properties - so they come flying off on track.. (Many years of One Lap prep to experiment with all 3 things has taught me well. Beer+windex = super fail. windex = fail, Beer+beer = fail. beer + dry application = fail. dry application = partial fail. Beer + beer + dish soap = wrinkles. Beer + dish soap = win)
  2. It is the prettiest part of your car....
  3. i just went to an SAE talk on under-car aero affect on cooling drag on street cars. Interesting and complex stuff, lots of compromises with a need to understand optimization goals. Certainly translates into the race world. I think you should add "Other Side Up" to that big one in the middle...
  4. I like the rain. But Mid-O in the wet is a whole different animal. I could give a similar reference to above to better describe it, but I'll get kicked off the internets.
  5. Also...... needs more blow-up doll.
  6. There is minimal difference in track length/braking zone between the club/pro course. Only difference is the club uses the chicane at the top of the hill going into turn 2. See attached image - Club is highlighted. Pro uses the straight section between 2 and 4. Pro course you have a bit more speed going into the keyhole (turn 2 on Pro course, turn 4 on club), so need to use a bit more brake. Club, you brake a bit (pretty light brake for most cars) in the chicane, and then again going into keyhole (not as hard as pro course since the chicane has already reduced your speed some). Compared to some other tracks, I would rate Mid-O as moderate on brakes. Turn 7 is a big barke event, 4 and 13 are moderate. The rest are minor. Plenty of time to keep brake temps in check.
  7. ^Cool - and that is the type of clarification that needs to be included in the rule. As far as the split X and sill bar, I could see tech NOT passing that as is per the rules, since the 2 required solid/single horizontal bars have much less than 6" of clear space between them at the front downtube. Another bit of rule clarification is needed for that as well; which bars need to have the 6" min gap?
  8. You should see my fire truck drawings. Heck, I should start selling my art work. Help pay for the racing. I could even start doing racer portraits and action scenes of the cars.
  9. Because L28s with trans attached are north of 500 lbs. I don't like the factor of safety of extending the boom any further.
  10. Clarification on the door bars would be good. Is it OK for a 3-bar (1 solid, 2 'halves') x-bar as long as it has gussets? This is what is generally used, with all bars in a single plane when viewed from above, X from the side. 1 bar goes between main hoop and a-pillar down-tube, with the second/third bar intersecting and welded to the single bar. Or, does the new rule mean any driver side X-bar must be 2 single bars that each span the distance from main hoop to a-pillar down-tube (outer bar with a slight bend to clear the other) along with gussets? Excuse the really crappy paint drawings. Is the top one OK with gussets and bottom OK w/o gussets? Or does it need to be the bottom type with gussets?
  11. Kevin - in sorta-response to your response back to skierman, one of the things that you have to remember (er, realize?) is that you are in the vast minority when it comes to car build/prep/setup. Most of these guys are like 'they make a gauge that tells you what the oil temp is? Shiz, our team just started thinking that maybe that little red tin-man light on the dash hasn't lit up in a while, I wonder if the bulb is still good" -or- "you mean I have to buy a cooler, and lines, and a new gauge and a new sensor? But that would cost as much as a replacement engine...." You could probably take the number of teams that are running an oil pressure and oil temp gauge at the next race you are running, use that number as your penalty lap count, and you'll still win by 3 laps. Partially kidding. popcorn is ready, back at it ya'll.
  12. This echos FB political arguments, er, "informative posts". Complete with random partially related facts/non-facts, diffusion techniques, tangents, long-term views, short-sighted views, 'my side is better' arguments, BMWs are cheaty and minimal chance of changing the other sides' view point. Oh, and a whole bunch of hot air from all around. Current state: engine oil coolers is one method to increase longevity of engines being run in chump, thus potentially reducing some teams' operating costs and potentially reducing the amount of oil that makes it onto the racing surface. Engine oil coolers also have the potential to allow a team to run their car harder and/or longer if that team uses oil temps as a controlling point (or the ECU does). Oil coolers cost a small number of points to add to any car that does not have one from the factory, and anyone can apply them if they desire. Teams must decide if the points are worth it for their particular team to apply this method to increase longevity of their engine. One side desires these coolers to be a no-point hit addition on the grounds of the potential to increasing longevity of engines making racing cheaper for everyone. The other side desires these coolers to keep the point hit based on they are added parts that have potential to increase overall race performance (mostly reliability as a performance item in endurance racing). Both arguments are valid. Both arguments are flawed. Both sides need to be looked at and considered, with consideration of ChumpCar community as a whole. To go with the political theme of this - Petition for a change. Chump will review it, take comments from participants and give a final say. Whatever the outcome, all participants live with it (and stops threads like this, I've had far too much popcorn lately). If someone really dislikes the outcome, new petition (with good reasoning) to reverse it can be sent in. Personally, I'd rather see engine oil coolers go to 0 pts (because I understand and agree with Kevin's point on cooler oil = better engine health). But ONLY if cars w/ factory oil coolers get reduced by whatever oil cooler points are AND all the free suspension parts that have real speed impact go back to points - like 10 pts for bushings (because I understand and agree with the other side for the potential for faster overall average lap times). Just adding engine oil coolers to the 'free' list is BS.
  13. Couple things on this. Yeah we did just fine on track. 2013/2014 seasons - 1 mechanical failure (when the original junk-yard engine, untouched except for a couple of seals, expired spectacularly at Gingerman while in podium position, 3 driver-induced DNFs (mis-shift on Saturday at MIS chasing down 1st that created more damage than we thought that also ended our day on Sunday, and Thelma's fateful last day at the Glen Championships). Otherwise, my car was in impound every race (not weekend, race) with majority of those podium spots, even with a few sets of MOV penalty laps thrown in there. Overall race average pace was slower back then, but that doesn't exactly mean less maint costs/prep time. My list of consumables included brake pads 2 sets of fronts per weekend, rear every weekend, set of tires per weekend, plus maybe a couple depending on track, hubs 1-2 weekends, fluids every weekend, RR bearings/axles every year, etc, etc. Prices have gone up on some of those parts, but I would expect majority of your higher costs are from the driveline rebuild schedule/costs and yes, the increased wear from the additional loads associated with going 5% faster. I think the biggest difference is how and what I charged my team. Its family, so I've never been out to make money, just the base costs to keep the car on track and competitive. Weekend cost at the track including entry fee was usually in the ~3500 range. It can still be done and a team can still be competitive in the long run (at least for podium, FTD, not a chance). Not all replacement parts have to be brand-new, fresh, fully rebuilt. Race weekend costs did not include the original build cost of the car (original build was very reasonable, considering my $250 starting point)., Weekend consumables were at-cost (brakes, tires, $50 worth of engine oil,other fluids), multi-weekend consumables (RR bearings, axles, suspension bits, etc) were at-cost and amortized over expected life per component (couple weekdns -> full year). Larger wear items were amortized over what I thought the parts would last and cost was used-replacement prices where reasonable (trans/diff/engine with small extra for basic seals - these were split over ~10 race weekend or ~2 years), not fresh/new/full re-build stuff. Improvements were added in, amortized over 1 year, and kept to a minimum. I grabbed deals as I could and transferred that to the team. No extra for crash-damage up front (paid as they happened with used/reasonable replacement cost either paid by offending driver or split between team if a racing incident). Car ran 87 octane. 205/R15 tires are cheap. Transport fee was fuel only, and my truck gets 15-18 mpg towing. Longest tow was 8.5 hours. Lodging NOT included. Food cost were minimal, as Chef Tracey did a good job providing simple and cost effective breakfast and lunch, dinner generally not included. My time not included, since many times the core team would have helped with prep/build at some point. So yeah, there are some big differences in how my costs were spread out, but they are just the costs so that a 'break even' point is achieved. I did charge a bit extra to my 'renters', since they never put time in on the car. I also did not use the other drivers as a way to pay for my own seat time either - I paid the same split as everyone else did. I am sure that at least a few teams operate in a way that the owner gets to play for free (just doing the math on seat cost vs observed operation cost of little 4-bangers...). The Z I am doing a bit different since it is a new build - cost of build (cage, safety gear, etc) amortized in, but over 20 race weekends (hopeful life of the car). But everything else is essentially the same to keep costs low for my team. Key point here is MY team, which consists of blood-relatives and close friends that I consider family. Now, if I were to build/run the car for renters (not family), as a business, I would alter things. I would include mileage fees for towing vs. just fuel. I would include a reasonable vehicle prep time cost and charge for a reasonable amount of my time while at the track. There would be a damage contingency added in on the front that would cover the little racing incidents. I would bring on a crew guy specific for prepping the car and keeping it on track, and add his/her costs to the rental fee. Total build cost would be amortized over a shorter period of time. It adds up quick for arrive-and-drive situations like that. And with all of this said..... Add-on Oil coolers (engine, trans, diff, steering). It is a benefit. Should have points associated with it. You decide if you want to work off the lap (seems like that is doable...) or spend the little bit of extra money per weekend changing the oil. Ballz man, charging 1600-1700 per driver and you can't fit a <$100 oil change in there split between 3-5 drivers? The only item with a smaller weekend cost associated with it is brake fluid.
  14. I am trying to already be there driving. We shall see how car prep goes and if the team is up for the event. I'm thinking yes at the moment.
  15. I'll show up for just this! Details please....