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NigelStu last won the day on December 31 2016

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About NigelStu

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  1. Eventually. Once I figure out how to make that ol' girl keep up with you youngins with your fancy air-o die-namics and conquest turbos-flux-capasiters and LX-everything.
  2. I have this potentially cool looking Z car on my trailer that could possibly have an engine and proper livery by this show next year that would fit all of these.
  3. I like it wet.
  4. Striper/stripper. Just like desert/dessert. Always double up for enjoyment. Excellent tool for weight removal = Sawzall + NGAF about looks/keeping the elements out.
  5. While this isn't directly related to my ChumpCar, I did finish up this little gem over the weekend. Which means that I now have space again in the garage for the Datsun and can start working on filling up it's engine bay. Or some other project if someone needs some work done... BTW, these things are a hoot to drive! Even without optimizing the tune. '01 with the 3.2L Type-S motor (and don't worry, this car has no intentions of being a ChumpCar.)
  6. ^^Awesome to watch the chase down. AND..... ~0.2 seconds separating Where's John and RVA! WOW!
  7. MMmmmmmmmm Beer! I'm a mix of all of you, but just the good parts ;). Partial to excellent wheats/hefe and other Bavarian goodness and solid stouts. Also enjoy porters, about half of the IPAs/DIPAs out there, imperial whatevers, reds/ambers, kolsch and pale ales when I want something lighter and crisp. Props if it is a good homebrew! Tend to stay away from anything involving bland/boring (aka, basic domestic beers), bitter (not to be confused with high IBU), barrels and funk when I have the choice, but always willing to try new stuff and sometimes I am just thirsty. Most of my racing travels involve bringing home significant quantities of beer, especially from WI. Since I plan to bring home a stockpile, that means I have adequate space on the way to events as well. Always willing to set up a trade. Detroit area and lower MI as a whole has large variety of delicious stuff. NC has surprised me with what is available there now (MMMM, Wooden Robot, Unknown, Foothills). I need more north-east and west coast in my life, er, belly.
  8. Tyler and I did this on Saturday - Violet, meet Thelma: Followed by a lot of this at a couple of my favorite local breweries, followed by more deliciousness and home brew at the SSM homestead: Followed by putting all the stuff back on the engine/car on Sunday, followed by forgetting that the C104 plug supplies power to the ECU (and does indeed need to be plugged in, or at least provided power, for the car to start) and therefore, followed by frustration and eventual pushing the car into the trailer so Tyler could take it home. Followed by Monday morning eureka / head-slap moment after taking another look at the wiring diagrams and jogging my memory. One. Freaking. Wire. Apparently, it has been too long since I E30'd.
  9. This thread makes me think that 'enginerd' and 'Hi_I'm_Will' need to trade names.
  10. I don't think it was Tyler that snagged this one....
  11. Reviewing the video again, rod exposed end looks to be in about the correct height, and is facing about where you'd expect a slightly bent rod to be facing. The valve would have done all the damage to the piston. So, step 1 - valve broke. Step 2 - destruction. Step 3 - profit..... Question would be WHY did the valve break. Doesn't take long for even a very minor bend in the stem to break the head off: think of how many times the valve leaves and returns to the seat in 1 minute when you are running the engine at 4-6K RPM.... With uneven pressure, it doesn't take long to break one. I would expect an assembly issue or possibly a part failure not related to assembly. As Will stated, based on how the head was set down, there is potential head was set down in the same manner during assembly and pre-bent a valve. Valve was already bent from something else before install Rocker clearance too tight, allowed valve to just barely contact piston (doesn't take much) valve keeper not installed correctly (probably not, otherwise failure would have occured sooner) towers/head shaved and or CAM out of spec on lift and clearances not checked rocker broken, stuck valve open (hard to tell in video, but it doesn't look like any of the rockers are broken/out of place) valve seat not installed fully, came loose or was not pressed in far enough which makes starting point of valve further in the cylinder Spark plug electrode or some other foreign object got in there, valve closed on it. timing was off, belt jumping a tooth (not likely, would expect more carnage)
  12. How are the rocker arms? And rod caps?
  13. Sounds like you have too soft of a spring in the back. What is your spring setup front and rear? Either cut? What kind of cell and what was your mounting structure? (curious about the total weight difference from stock tank to cell) FR/RR ride height can be used to adjust handling characteristics (assuming no bottoming out or full jounce on either end). If the attitude of the car is relatively lower in the rear (looking at the chassis, not wheel arches) it can move grip balance to the rear (this is really about weight balance and transfer). Similar ride height at pinch weld worked well for my team. Moving the battery could help some, but you should be able to fix this with some suspension changes.
  14. Does the handling get better as the fuel load goes down? I will add in - where in the turn are you getting understeer? Need details like: entry, mid, exit, power-on, power off, high-speed, low-speed, etc. Did you change anything else when you put in the cell?