mhr650

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mhr650 last won the day on April 30

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About mhr650

  • Birthday 02/19/1961

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    Asheville, NC

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  1. Very true that a GSL-SE will run with very little in the way of wiring and sensors, if you have a tach signal from one of the coils, and the signal from the air flow meter you are good to go. That said getting rid of all of the SE electronics and going to MS was some of the best money that I ever spent, I even did it when you had to pay 75 points for it . With the stock ECU and air flow meter system you end up hitting a wall of fuel on the top end you just can’t push through and make any power in the high RPM range.
  2. I use MK1 VW struts and they are pretty darn short.
  3. Been there done that, they may have made it easier in the last few years but when I did it the easiest option was to start a new team, get Chump staff to transfer over the number, and have all the drivers join the new driver pool.
  4. I use a set of the eBay coil over sleeves, the quality on the ones I got were fine. Just ignore the springs and get the proper ones from a quality supplier, the good thing is that 2.5 inch springs are dirt cheap in pretty much any length and any rate that you want.
  5. Both the first gen and second gen front suspension are a simple strut design, you should have little change as far as the motion ratio between wheel rate and spring rate between the 2 designs. It does sound to me like you were running way to soft front springs before… if it was me I would be looking much closer to the recommended spring rates you quoted. Do you use a first gen or second gen sway bar with the subframe swap? The largest conventional front bar you can get for a first gen is 1.125 or 28.6mm, I have thought about converting my car over to a 3 piece speedway style to get a stiffer front bar, it’s hard to get too much front sway bar in these cars. To make these ancient cars handle with the very simple front suspension and live axle rear you need to really stiffen up the front, about a 2-1 spring rate ratio with the rear, and as big of a sway bar as you can get. In the rear you want it to be free to articulate so remove the rear sway bar and the upper 4 link bars, and Watts link. I have watched some video from behind of another first gen RX7 going through turn 9 down the hill at Road Atlanta and it is scary, at least 3 times the rear wanted to snap out from the 4 link binding. Bilstein B6 shocks should be a very good choice for your car, the only thing to watch out for is if they bottom out at your ride height. If they do you can always raise the strut mounts on top of the strut towers.
  6. I have been using the Atkins square cut Viton water seals and it is amazing how well they hold up to being overheated. After I started making real power but before I added a second oil cooler my oil temps were crazy high 270-300 all the time. At one race we ran the car completely out of water twice, once when the driver had an off and folded up the splitter and once when the driver left it idling during a red flag. The water temps got over 260, but once I topped the water off with a garden sprayer through my dry break fitting it ran fine and never showed any sign of coolant seal leaks. I started out with a GSL-SE engine and I can definitely appreciated the RPM limits with the 3mm apex seals. I rebuilt with S4 rotors that had 2mm seals and once I got an EFI system on the car that didn't go crazy rich at high RPM I found a lot of power up there. My new engine has S5 rotors and something more better for seals so I expect even more power.
  7. There is a guy in Charlotte who has one of those, it shows up for sale when I search for spare rotary parts.
  8. Not positive on a heavy car but VIR is pretty easy on tires. Last year with the brand new pavement the tires on my car barley looked scuffed in after the race.
  9. I agree that an internally powered dash or a phone or tablet for lap timing staying on during pit stops should be fine, but I have personally seen teams questioned by pit marshals over that exact issue at races before. In my car I also have a battery powered LED dome light for night racing driver changes.
  10. Don't think so unless you see something that I missed.
  11. It's a race car, it didn't stay this clean for long… I do make an effort to keep it at least semi clean after races, makes working on the car more fun and less of a chore.
  12. Most first gens racing in Chump have the rear down tubes mounted exactly the way yours are, since most of the cages are bolt in Autopower cages that have been welded in and added on to. My first car had the opposite problem and the rear bars went all the way back almost to the tail lights. This is where I ended up with my current car, the bars are sitting right on top of the rear frame rails in about the strongest spot in the rear of the car.
  13. One thing to keep in mind is to take as much as possible out on the initial build, racecars like people only get more portly with age. Every time you have a failure and you repair it you end up adding a little extra to prevent the same problem from coming back next time. You are constantly looking for ways to improve performance, wider wheels and bigger tires will probably make the car go faster but add weight, adding aero may help but a splitter or wing add weight. Getting tired of rain in the car so you add Lexan windows, drivers getting hot so you add a blower or upgrade the cool suit, it can go on and on indefinitely, each addition is small and probably worthwhile but you can end up with a car that weighs 100lbs more than you started with very easily…
  14. When you only have about 8ft/lbs of torque you can use all the multiplication you can get…
  15. Dzus fasteners at the bottom of the aluminum straps through the body. It works great, if you notice that hatch below the window all of my fuel system stuff is in there, just open the rear window, and the fuel bulkhead hatch and I can get right to work on anything you need to.