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mhr650 last won the day on April 30

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About mhr650

  • Birthday 02/19/1961

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    Asheville, NC

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  1. Another thing that hasn't come up is the material for the lines. Nickle copper lines are much easier to flare and bend than the plastic coated steel lines. They are more expensive but you can buy a whole roll on Amazon for a pretty good price.
  2. Everyone is giving some good info on running costs, I will give some advice directly on running a first gen RX7 in ChumpCar, there is a thread going in the technical discussions area about building one. A fairly stock car with a 12A will be a fun car to run but will be very outgunned by other cars if you are trying to run at the front. It is possible to get one competitive but it takes a lot of work, my car with extensive suspension work, and a very strong 13B is capable of running at the front of the field, competing for the overall and setting FTD, but it takes a lot to make any 100 point car competitive nowadays.
  3. Very true, I just got a Golf Sportwagen with a 1.8 turbo, a DSG dual clutch transmission, and a Haldex 4 wheel drive system. I was flogging the car around the mountains in manual mode and thought how awesome it would be to put this drivetrain in an old Scirocco for Chump, it even heel toes for you blipping the throttle on downshifts. I doubt I could figure out a way to make the math work though.
  4. I had one of those battery eliminators for a Baofeng break open and all they are is an empty battery case with 2 wires going to the terminals. If you could come up with a dead battery for the Vertex radio you could cut the case apart, remove the battery, and solder in one of the Baofeng cigarette lighter adapters and be good to go.
  5. Not exactly endurance racing, but one of our customers manages to make pretty good power with one. He brought the car to one of our open houses a couple of years ago, pretty cool.
  6. Thanks for the update, you all know you can call me Mike LOL
  7. Realistically you need a separate VPI if you want to race a TDI powered car. It is not really the same as taking the stock gasoline engine and adding a turbo either from the factory or aftermarket. Also it was not possible to get a diesel beetle without a turbo so it does not fit into the add 100 points for a turbo category. Just submit a request to get it added to the VPI list and I am sure they can work out a value. Back to the original question, since many VW’s came with a BW K0 turbo does that mean that I could run any BW K0 turbo variant? My motivations are a bit different than anybody else’s, I would like to get in some durability testing on some prototype bits.
  8. You can see in this cutaway why the SE rotors are so weak, there is hardly any material around the inner bearing. They have a really bad reputation around SCCA racers and I have seen them break in person. Compared to my design of cutting the rotor off of a standard rotor which leaves a lot of material around the bearings and is pretty much indestructible. My car has been hit hard enough to bend the stub axle on the strut and give it an inch of toe in and the hubs and bearings survived perfectly fine. The best path to get big brakes on your GSL-SE is to use a base model FC hub. It is a nice aluminum hub with a 4X114.3 bolt pattern that will match your rear axle pattern so all of your wheels will fit. You will need a bearing spacer pressed onto the stub axle for the inner bearing and seal of the FC hub, and you will need to redrill 5 bolt FC big brake rotors to the 4X114.3 bolt pattern, but that is easy. You could use my caliper brackets to mount the 4 piston calipers to the struts, you may have to do a little shimming to center the calipers on the rotors since I haven’t tried it with that hub and rotor combination.
  9. I am not really in a position to machine any rotors, not to mention that I am a way better engineer than machinist… Here are the dimensions that you can use to make a standard FB brake rotor into a separate hub to work with a second gen rotor. I can get some sets of brackets made, if I know what everyone wants, cost would just be what it cost me and shipping to you, probably less than $50 per car. I can put you guys in touch with the one person who did the front only upgrade to get his story but he was very unhappy. The SE rear brakes would probably be better matched to the FC front brakes For Alex if you are running GSL-SE front brakes you really want to do this upgrade, the SE front rotor-hub is very weak and prone to breaking in racing applications. It happened to the Rotary Rotards a couple of years ago and the front wheel basically fell off, it was not pretty. This system using the standard FB rotor to make a hub and slipping the FC rotors over it is pretty bulletproof, the only disadvantage is that since the hub is iron instead of aluminum like a stock FC or an aftermarket BF hub it is a little more weight. In your case it would be a problem that changing over puts you into a 4X110 front hub, which would suck especially since all of your wheels are probably already 4X114 and you would never want to miss and match. Another option is to get a Coleman aluminum hub and rotor assy which could be drilled for the 4X114 a pattern and use a Wilwood caliper, which is what the Rotards did. I have their contact info if you are interested in looking into that path. modified_hub.pdf front_rotor.pdf rear_rotor.pdf
  10. You don't want to run big front brakes with stock FB rear disks, this has been tried and the results were terrible. The rear big brake upgrade is pretty simple just an adapter bracket and a ring that you weld to the axle flange to locate the bigger pilot of the second gen disk. The pilot ring could probably be left off and center the rotor on the studs but I haven’t tried it. You can send me an email and I will send you some drawings that show everything.
  11. I am happy to share everything that I have. I have a couple of different designs, my favorite rear design uses a drum brake housing and the caliper bracket becomes a 3/8 in thick bearing retainer instead of the silly sheet metal piece that Mazda put in there. I do have a design for a caliper bracket and thick bearing retainer plate for a disk brake rear housing. I can send you files that you can have your favorite laser cutting shop duplicate or I have a shop locally that does really good work for a pretty good price, their min is $60 and you can probably get 2 sets of brackets and retainers for that price. I also have dimensions for machining the front hubs to fit the second gen rotors.
  12. FB brakes are woefully inadequate for endurance racing. Between front rotors cracking like crazy and too much rear bias making the car unstable under braking, changing the brakes was one of the best changes I ever made to the car. The way I did the conversion is to machine the rotor part off of the stock front brake rotors to make it just a hub, then I redrill a second gen rotor to 4X110 and slip it over the hub. I have never had any bearing problems at all, they are old school tapered roller bearings, I use good grease and service them regularly and have never had to worry about them.
  13. OMP makes an XL version of their containment seat, I have just installed it in our car. I am 6’3” and 285 and can just fit into it.
  14. I have never run with exactly the combination that you will be using. I started with the GSL-SE fuel system with 2 injectors even though I was running the larger S4 intake, from there I went straight to S5 and MS3Pro standalone ECU. The standard Mazda ECU is notorious for going very rich at high RPM, the older SE system is probably even worse than what you will have to work with. With the MS I can program good AFR all the way as high as I want to rev the motor, of course if you are making more power and revving the motor higher your fuel burn still goes up even with the proper AFR. In the end I use about the same fuel 8-8.5 gph with both systems I just have a lot more power with the MS. I wish that 18 gallon fuel cells weren’t so expensive to have a little margin to get to 2 hrs if we have to, right now I plan about 1:45 max stints.