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Hi_Im_Will last won the day on April 12

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About Hi_Im_Will

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    Dearborn, MI

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  1. Relating this to the original question, as the car gets quicker, and further from stock, your cost per hour goes up. The difference between the 1:49.xs we ran at Gingerman 4 years ago and the 1:44.xs we can run now is about $100/hr in tires, fuel, maintenance, etc.
  2. That's a much more elegant term for what I was trying to say.
  3. That's probably trash. You can try milling out the crack itself to eliminate the stress riser, and the result might be OK for a street car, but I wouldn't run it in a race. As soon as that crack crosses over to the head bolt, it will push water up the bolt shank and into the oil.
  4. Only the Dunlop. If you scroll down to the specs on TireRack, you'll notice the Dunlop has a 10" wide tread, while most of the rest of the 255s are around 9". I wouldn't put a 255 rival on an 11, but the ZII* has dimensions closer to a 275/35R17 than a 255/40R17.
  5. That's a lot of power. I'm jealous. At 2880 w/driver and no aero, you may be able to get away with something as small as a 245, but I think 255/40R17 is probably your best bet because the tire selection is so good. You'll get a bit lower since it's smaller diameter than your old wheels, and should get you a little higher in the revs for the long straights. If you want selection at that size, get a 17x10, and it will work with all the available options. If you want wide, go 17x11 and run the Direzza ZII* in 255/40R17. It's bigger than most 275s, and grips just as well as anything not labeled "RE71R" or "Rival S". The Dunlop on an 11" wheel and will be lower and gripper than the same wheel with the 275 Azenis. Since you don't care about fenders or wheel bearings, get as low of an offset as possible, run the max spacer, and push those suckers way outboard. You can even run a 1" adapter instead of spacer to really open up your wheel choices - there's a lot of good stuff in European and Japanese patterns with low offsets available in 17x10. So, in summary, 17x11et36 ZR1 wheels with the 255/40R17 Dunlop Direzza ZII* and maybe a spacer sounds like a winner. Just make sure the fenders can be adjusted to still cover the tires. American Racing Torque Thrust 17x10.5et44 may also be an option with the same tire, but preserves the option to run a cheater tire when you want to burn money quickly.
  6. Free yourself from ZR1 wheels. Let's start with the basics: What is the car? Weight? Downforce/aero? Power OE bolt pattern/offset What is the OE tire diameter - are you happy with this? Are you gearing limited anywhere such that you need to increase top speed by increasing tire size How much ground clearance do you have? Is there room to reduce your CG height by running a smaller diameter tire? Are you restricted to a 17" wheel? Is increasing track width an option? Are you willing to modify fenders how's your wheel bearing life? At the tracks you generally race, is it worthwhile to trade off straight line speed for grip? (daytona: no. AMP: yes) Once you're got that all sorted out, start looking at tires. For racing you generally want a slightly stretched tire for handling predictability, but this will be a bit limited by what's available. In general: 10" wheel 245 255 10.5" wheel wider 255s 265 11" wheel 275 285 12" wheel 285+ Your actual ideal wheel width is dependent on the specs of the particular tire you choose. The nominal size is a rough guide, the actual OD and actual tread width (not section width) are what matter. I wouldn't run a pinched tire (actual tread width wider than wheel) unless it has a very short sidewall. Pinch is generally used for improving ride quality and NVH, and tends to make the car vague at the limit. You'll have to do some iteration loops of figuring out what wheels and tires are actually available to narrow your options down to a few setups. Spacers are fine, as long as you stay under the 1" points limit and spend the money on some high quality pieces. It's likely that you'll end up back at the 17x11et36 ZR1 reps with a 255/40R17 Dunlop Direzza ZII*, and maybe a spacer on top of that, but go through the exercise above to see what else is out there (and look at actual specs!!! The falken 275s are only 9.7" wide, but the dunlop 255 is 10"!!!). I haven't spent a lot of time looking at american car wheels, but there seem to be a lot of really good options in very wide sizes. And budget is only limited by what you're comfortable spending, but $250/wheel and $200/tire is probably a where people start wondering.
  7. You read my mind - had just put that in my shopping cart when you posted, except big claw instead of hose clamp.
  8. Wait, the thing I downloaded was called Wowza GoCoder....Im confused. What do you use for a phone mount?
  9. 1. By getting my phone set up on RaceCast, and joining an event, am I automatically added to the ChumpCast and the Youtube live stream? 2. Driver names are updated mid-race by logging in and changing it on my racecast profile? 3. Is broadcasting really as easy as opening Wowza and pressing the big red button?
  10. I was just thinking about the same thing recently. Best guess is that they're trying to maximize corner radius, and unwinding the steering wheel only once they've run out of track. Ideally, the line around a place like Indy would be 4 constant radius arcs with lines between. Problem is, to have an arc connected to a line requires a step change in steering angle, which is impossible, and getting close upsets the car (bad). If you unwind the steering wheel such that the car ends up parallel to the wall, that unwind takes space, and you give up a bit of track, forcing a smaller minimum corner radius. So what they're doing is waiting until the car has exited the corner to start unwinding - there's room now because they turned a bit too far. Result is they end up in the middle of the track and instead of the outside, and follow a longer path, but when long accel is very small compared to lat accel, it's worthwhile to give up a bit of path length to maintain speed. Think of it this way: Assume constant velocity. This is probably valid enough for the indy 500. Lets also make an assumption that the unwind takes about 2 car widths vs constant radius turn. So 12 ft. Google maps rough measurement says the radius of the max radius circle on the track is ~700ft. Neglect banking and actual values, this is directional only. Assuming your car tops out at 4g, a 700ft radius corner can be taken at (4*32.2*700)^.5 = 300ft/s = 204mph. The time to complete the following 5/8mi straight is 11.029s. Being pessimistic, moving that extra 12 ft down the track and back up added 5 ft of real length to your path (if you actually work it out with pythagorean theorem its less than a foot - triangles are cool!). So if you add that extra 5 ft on, at 300ft/s, the penalty of coming back down the track on corner exit was 0.017s, for a total of 11.036s down the back straight. Now, lets re-do that math if you take that 12ft off the corner radius instead of the distance down the back straight. at 4g, a 688ft radius corner can be taken at....297.7ft/s or 202.9mph. Your 5/8 mile back straight now takes 11.085s. Ouch. Yea, it's only 49 thousandths of a second, but at indycar speeds, that's almost 15 feet - a car length - per corner. Super ouch. So yeah, they do that funny thing because it's worth ~ .2s/lap.
  11. I think I have some that I technically sold to a friend with the car, but I don't think he knows they exist, so if I find them you can have them.
  12. No. Wheel bolts are evil. Even BMWs own factory supported race cars are converted to studs and nuts.
  13. Me too, just need to get him in the car now. 245/40R15
  14. Yup, MSI makes the studs custom for bimmerworld.