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Hi_Im_Will last won the day on September 12

Hi_Im_Will had the most liked content!

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About Hi_Im_Will

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    Dearborn, MI

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  1. Track Toolbox and how to get it there?

    Now that's the Cadillac of stretchers. I was going to tell Rob to do the tilt-squat thing or learn how to kick the wheels up.
  2. Track Toolbox and how to get it there?

    These will one-man load an easy 300lbs onto a 36" high floor. More weight with a bit of practice: Also comes with a built in-retention mechanism. Find an old one, modify to suit? There's a 650lb bariatric model. Copy the mechanisms and build your own??
  3. Just barely behind the opening, tip lines up with the main roll hoop:
  4. OK what happened to your chump car today ?

    ATF in a manual trans is not uncommon. We run Redline D4 in our transmission. Also, engine oil weights are not comparable with gear oil weights - 10W40 engine oil is similar in viscosity to a 75W85 or 75W90 gear oil: Different detergent and additive pack, but not surprising it works.
  5. Track Toolbox and how to get it there?

    For how cheap they are, I love them. They're not perfect, but a hell of a lot sturdier than Craftsman/Husky/Kobalt whatever, for about the same price. They also come with drawer liners, which is a nice touch. Only complaint so far is the locks require regular greasing, and can't hold the drawers shut on the bottom box under heavy vibration. Might have been caused by falling over in the trailer though. Old craftsman had the same problems, and then some.... For $700, you won't find anything better.
  6. Track Toolbox and how to get it there?

    This is how I do the one-man move: The black thing is a steel cage used to tie the bottom box to the floor of the trailer. It constrains the box so you don't have to crush it with ratchet straps. I can push the box into the trailer myself. The top box just sits on the floor - it's stable enough to not roll around, open, etc. Just needs to be constrained by tires or something so it doesn't slide around too much.
  7. I'm not dead. Just never had a CO problem on a car with an intact exhaust, and from what I can tell, there's not much you can do to reduce drag on an open window other than close it, so I haven't really studied the in-cabin airflow. Helmet blowers always seemed like a good idea to me, especially the ones with a P100 filter on the inlet. The "Watson" part of Guarino-Watson Racing says cowl openings are bad for downforce, so we tape those shut, and scoops are really draggy, so we avoid those. Maybe one of hornerevan's fans pulling from up high on the grille wouldn't be bad. They make about half a pound of thrust, so maybe enough to make up for the drag created by putting a hole in the smooth front fascia.
  8. I specced out an insight without really knowing Hondas very well, think it could be a dominanting little car: 2003 Insight, 125 pts B16 non v-tec swap (forgot which letter), ~140 HP, works out to ~200 points total Trans +50 points Vtec head swap +50 points Low-drag super-aero kit +40 points (dam, flat underbody nose to tail, diffuser, big low rear wing in ground effect 100 points for suspension hard parts redesign/reinforcement as needed Free brakes Free springs Weld the diff 225/45R15 on 15x9 (I think RE71R is available in that size) Tune Use the leftover ~60 for a header, maybe a giant rear ARB, chassis reinforcement, etc. @red0 whats a B16 with a vtec head, header, and a tune worth? Might have a recipe for an 1800lb as-raced, 200hp, full aero, aluminum beast. Would take forever to build. but it'd be fun to run circles around people in an insight. On topic, it may not really fit an any NASA or SCCA class. Or even the non-GPX WRL classes. But it would be cool in Chump
  9. What have you spent to keep up?

    Updates to the car (not including maintenance, spares, etc) is roughly 15% of our yearly expenses.
  10. Brake cooling and upgrades

    Naw - BMW math says zero points because 2x rule for brakes, and everybody just believes you because OEM BMW stuff is really really expensive. Claiming materials is only if it's for something where 2x doesn't apply, and then you claim it's a piece of re-purposed seat rail or something, so still zero points (or is that MR2 math ) But it really is a simple part. Basic 2D - cut from plate stock with bandsaw/hacksaw/waterjet/cut-off wheel/whatever, clean up edges with belt sander/angle grinder, hand or press drill and tap. Easy peasy, $40 of stock for the set, make it in your garage. Add another $50 if you pay somebody to cut it out on the water jet for you. So realistically it's $100 to make the set in a time-efficient manner, that site is just charging a giant markup, probably because they can.
  11. Must not have been clear - aftermarket bushings save money, but all that other free stuff makes the car faster, and helps us burn more money on tires and fuel.
  12. We did hit the 5 second target at WGI, but the previous time was nowhere near a track record. We beat the old track record by a few tenths, then that record got smashed by the ecotec miata later in the same race. The new car was no faster (during the race) than the old car at Gingerman this year, and we lost our track record there. But yeah, free stuff frees up points, and frees up performance. For example, at least with me driving, turn 9 at Gingerman is oil pressure limited. With an accusump, I'd take that corner flat. Free bushings means we don't have to replace the stock ones almost every race anymore, but I think most teams took the points hit on a more durable set. Free oil cooler would allow stringing out the engine all the way to its ideal 7000rpm shift point consistently, instead of only when needed for a pass. Free radiator - well with the way the aero is set up I'm not sure that would help much. Heck, when lexan became free we built wings.
  13. Road America fall race

    That would assume engineers understand fun. Lots and lots of drag???
  14. Road America fall race

    We don't really stop that hard. Too much camber. 1.2g is about it most places, maybe 1.4 at really high speeds like the end of the back straight at WGI. It only looks like we stop really hard because we hit the brakes so late. We brake super late because with all the lateral grip, we simply don't have to slow down very much. I don't think the braking ever made @enginerd soil the seat, but the sideways exit from turn 1 on the last lap might have.
  15. Bassett D-hole 15x10, 5" backspace, 1/4" spacer. We run them with 245/40R15 Hankook RS4s. The center mounting pad interferes with the brake caliper on E30 without a spacer, but probably clears on E36 given the larger rotor diameter. http://www.bassettwheel.com/dhole_lightweight.html or a smidge lighter: http://www.bassettwheel.com/1510_inertia.html Quick look says E36 also needs 5" backspace. Use 5x4.75 bolt pattern - it's close enough to 5x120 for steelies and their terrible machining tolerances. Add the spacer if needed to clear the caliper.