Huggy

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Huggy last won the day on February 28

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About Huggy

  • Birthday 11/03/1989

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    Raleigh, NC

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  1. Money Sent, Thanks. Worth a few extra $ for a bolt-on solution
  2. Sounds good, Paypal?
  3. Searched and could not find the thread from before? Two questions: 1. I know the chump-store does not sell the original number panel lights anymore. Does anyone have a source to where I can get some identical or mostly similar lights? My 146 car had both smashed at the last race, so I should probably replace them. It would be nice if I could just unplug, unbolt, and replace instead of having to drill and splice. 2. What is the new hot ticket for door panel lighting? EL panels? Reflective numbers? LED strips in the shape of numbers? Nixie Lights? The new car needs number panels, and I am trying to plan my setup. Thanks
  4. Care to share? I have that mount and hate it because of the behavior you describe - It rotates the phone when you take a turn unless the phone is the MAX size that fits. So Iphone 6+ and a case works OK, but Iphone 6 or 5 flop around.
  5. Drive your chumpcar to work day.
  6. How did you get internet? Sold Edit: Amazon.com FTW https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-201-Installer/dp/B00063UMZ4/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00063UMZ4&pd_rd_r=C2HEQRQGMK9802F73R64&pd_rd_w=8wkxS&pd_rd_wg=y7mbm&psc=1&refRID=C2HEQRQGMK9802F73R64
  7. We use a chest freezer from craigslist. Makes a great cooler, and once we are at the track we can plug it in and actually make ice. The jugs are antifreeze jugs. We leave them sealed. 3 fit in our cooler, and the water finishes cold and the jugs still have plenty of ice left. The beauty of the freezer is we only need enough jugs for 4 stints or so, then the first stints jugs have had enough time to re-freeze again.
  8. Busted out the fancy tools @pintodave Sunday and got to work. Tacked the main hoop diagonal in place. Minor Gripe to RCC in this bar. Its about 3 inches too short, and the notch is about 5 degrees too agressive, leaving a gap on the top edge. Not too big to MIG, but TIG would be challenging, at least at my skill level. The RCC Cage did not include "sill" bars, so I had to make them. Cage Gage made it easy to determine 12.5 Deg on the rear, 15 deg on the front, 48 inches long, notch, notch, & done. With the A-pillar/windshield bar in its final location, I was able to make the windshield header cross - bar. The RCC bar was nicely bent & shaped, but was about 4 inches too short. I carefully measured the cage-gage bar and added 4 inches to the center section. Cut a 42 inch bar, measured the midpoint. 6.5 inches each side of the mindpoint, draw a line and arrow facing out. This is the first bend, which is 5 degrees. 6.5 more inches, draw another line facing out, the second bend is 6 degrees. The completion of the Sill bar also allowed for fab of the drivers footwell protection. Dad fabbed a baseplate and shortened the RCC provided bars. The horizontal bar was notched correctly, just about 8 inches too long. The angled bar was only notched on one end (the upper end) so we had to notch the lower end, then cut the pipe off to make the flat section that will mate with the firewall. There is a small (1x3) inch plate on the side behind both tubes for additional support. These are by far the hardest tubes to weld on the whole car. I also made the horizontal bar that goes across the main hoop at the bottom. It will get welded to the transmission tunnel. This bar was provided by RCC, but was much too long. I suppose it is designed to be cut, and the cut remnant then used for the short section - which is what I did. Requires lots and lots of trimming 1/8th at a time to get perfect fitment. In this picture, I still need to trim both sides Finally, I used the Cage-Gage again to make the roof diagonal. 6.5 inches, then bend 20 degrees. The notches are about 45 degrees on both ends, with some trimming from the grinder and belt sander for final fit. This bar is hard because its above your head, so of course you drop it into your skull a few times trying to eyeball the notches. Also, you have to install/wedge it in place with the windshield header bar. I have a "PipeMaster" notching tool which helped layout this notch. Ended up getting the fitment close enough that I had to beat the front roof crossbeam with a hammer, and i will have to grind the sunroof sheetmetal slightly to prevent a rattle. Now, I am waiting on the RaceTech seat mounting brackets to show up so I can make the seat subframe. Then, The Harness bars can be installed properly, and the door bars fitted for max clearance.
  9. first one shows a lot of crashing...
  10. A lot of times, valve Sealing issues can be hidden in compression, that's what leak down is for. good to get a baseline for each once the motor is broken in.
  11. Rings and rod bearings. exhaust guides sometimes are worn, but not intakes. Only had to replace bent valves. Main bearings have proven to be quite solid.
  12. You serious? if so, we have incredibly different m20 experiences...
  13. Finally done patching holes and starting the fun part. Bought a RCC Cage to hopefully expedite the process. I figured I would end up building some of the bars from scratch. Base plate materials were provided. I elected to use them in a non-standard manner, so I will have to find some additional material. Main hoop and A-Pillars fit spectacularly! Dash bar came about 2 inches too long. Re-notched and it fit great as well. Unfortunately, the rest of the bars arent going to fit nearly as well. The Door bars are about 3 inches too short, the Main hoop Diagonal is also about 3 inches too short and notched at a poor angle, and the windshield header bar is about 2 inches too short and designed to fit too far back (almost near the sunroof front edge) instead of the top of the glass. I'm gonna have to remake all of that stuff.
  14. You got the part numbers? My whole crew has Coolshirt.. but my fittings (From mcmaster) look like the FAST kind per the above pictures... Maybe thats why they have been aggravating at times?