trigun7469

E30 Car preperation

61 posts in this topic

24 minutes ago, NigelStu said:

First, make sure all your suspension moves freely as it should (fix the binding), then test to find out works best.

 

I never raced with the rear bar in my car.  Car was faster without it.  That was with an older, slipping diff, so much of the time lost was due to the bar picking up the inside tire.  Possibly with a fresh rebuilt (or welded) diff, and fancy aero, leaving the rear bar on could be faster.

By binding I did not mean a physical binding. Binding might not have been the best word to use...just felt like it wasn't smoothly riding over the track if that makes sense. We are putting in a new rear diff this weekend and bedding in some new pads so I think we will take the bar out while we are under there and see how it feels. We have a pretty good "test track" at our office park where we can do around 70 tops, but it has some sharp corners that has some nice dips so we can get a feel for it. We can always put it back in. The test sessions at Road Atlanta also gives us a good opportunity to see whats what. Thanks for  the input!!!

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58 minutes ago, Huggy said:

Remove the weight and go back to the stock bar.  

 

Moving required weight around to balance car = good

 

leaving in additional unnecessary weight to balance car = terrible

Good point! That stuff sure is a Bioch to remove. BTW, your surge tank instructions on your build thread was invaluable in getting mine in. I owe you a beer or several at Road Atlanta @Huggy, or an Irish Whiskey depending on the weather.;)

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If you have a slipping diff it'll give you different indications on what is going on. at Gingerman we tried so many rear spring and bar setups. At the end of the day we hate a crappy rear diff. A well rebuit rear diff will help rear end problems. Ask @NigelStu......

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7 minutes ago, Crank Yankers Racing said:

If you have a slipping diff it'll give you different indications on what is going on. at Gingerman we tried so many rear spring and bar setups. At the end of the day we hate a crappy rear diff. A well rebuit rear diff will help rear end problems. Ask @NigelStu......

I got a 3.73 LSD from Elon that I picked up at Barber. Goes in this weekend. Can't wait!

 

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3 hours ago, Doc said:

Good point! That stuff sure is a Bioch to remove. BTW, your surge tank instructions on your build thread was invaluable in getting mine in. I owe you a beer or several at Road Atlanta @Huggy, or an Irish Whiskey depending on the weather.;)

 

Stuff in the trunk (the thick stuff) I think I used s heat gun.  I don't remember it being bad.

 

Stuff under the back seat and such - dry ice

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1 hour ago, Huggy said:

 

Stuff in the trunk (the thick stuff) I think I used s heat gun.  I don't remember it being bad.

 

Stuff under the back seat and such - dry ice

Yeah the stuff inside was easy. I'm a little leery of a heat gun in the trunk...at least near the surge tank. We chipped some away to mount a sway bar and I seem to recall it was similar in strength to reinforced concrete. Or something more indestructible. :lol:

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10 hours ago, Doc said:

Yeah the stuff inside was easy. I'm a little leery of a heat gun in the trunk...at least near the surge tank. We chipped some away to mount a sway bar and I seem to recall it was similar in strength to reinforced concrete. Or something more indestructible. :lol:

 

3lb sledgehammer, start swinging.  If you're lucky, or do it on a cold day, you won't even need dry ice.  It's a chumpcar, so don't worry about dents in the trunk - hit that stuff hard enough and it will chip off.

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Here is a good trick to help with the dry ice technique. Put your dry ice in a pillow case, bust it up in the smallest pieces you can, and douse the pillow case with isopropyl alcohol. By wetting the pillow case with alcohol it helps get a good heat transfer going between the dry ice and the insulation. Having the dry ice in the pillow case lets you cover the vertical spaces that are so hard to get to but it helps even on a flat floor space, and it makes the process so much more efficient that you will end up using way less dry ice in the process.

IMG_20141002_192011_zps2znxonkg.jpg

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7 minutes ago, mhr650 said:

Here is a good trick to help with the dry ice technique. Put your dry ice in a pillow case, bust it up in the smallest pieces you can, and douse the pillow case with isopropyl alcohol. By wetting the pillow case with alcohol it helps get a good heat transfer going between the dry ice and the insulation. Having the dry ice in the pillow case lets you cover the vertical spaces that are so hard to get to but it helps even on a flat floor space, and it makes the process so much more efficient that you will end up using way less dry ice in the process.

 

IMG_20141002_192011_zps2znxonkg.jpg

 

That looks much more efficient than the old blanket I tossed on top of the dry ice when I did mine.

 

Although doing it outside on a 20 degree day probably made up for my lack of mastic removing skill.

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5 hours ago, mhr650 said:

Here is a good trick to help with the dry ice technique. Put your dry ice in a pillow case, bust it up in the smallest pieces you can, and douse the pillow case with isopropyl alcohol. By wetting the pillow case with alcohol it helps get a good heat transfer going between the dry ice and the insulation. Having the dry ice in the pillow case lets you cover the vertical spaces that are so hard to get to but it helps even on a flat floor space, and it makes the process so much more efficient that you will end up using way less dry ice in the process.

 

IMG_20141002_192011_zps2znxonkg.jpg

 

Did you mention alcohol? I have plenty of that in the house

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21 hours ago, Crank Yankers Racing said:

 

Did you mention alcohol? I have plenty of that in the house

Don't you dare...

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