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    • Bill Strong

      BOD Nominations   10/03/2017

      Emails have been sent to all current CCWS Members with a link to BOD nominations. Please check your email.   You will need to ask the person you're nominating for their current 2017 CCWS Member Number. Keep in mind that we will contact each nominee to make sure they are OK with being a candidate. You can't nominate yourself either (sorry). All nominations are due by November 3, 2017. To keep from having 574 different nominees, a nominee must be named by at least five members to qualify. We will compile all the nominations and put the top ten nominees on the November 10, 2017, ballot. Elections are over on December 10, 2017. We will announce the winners on December 13, 2017, and the two winners will take office January 1, 2018. How to get your current CCWS member number. Log into the CCWS event registration system. Your member number will be next to your name on the welcome screen. https://www.chumpcar.com/register/login.php Mike Chisek
      ChumpCar International, Inc.


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mender last won the day on October 7

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About mender

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  1. With the WDCYC factor that they presently use.
  2. Simple Enforcement for Fuel

    Lots of misconceptions out there; I'll try and clear some up without clogging up the thread. No. Every engine has a spark timing curve that produces the best output, and advancing the timing more than that starts to work against the piston as it is rising in the bore. The old days of adding 2 degrees at a time until it pinged then backing off are gone; that was when we had to try and get our old high compression muscle cars to run on the pig swill they were selling as gas, especially as they were switching over from leaded to unleaded gas. High compression + low octane = retarded timing and less power; use fuel with the proper octane level and the timing can go back to the optimum and power comes back up. Unfortunately, that gets changed in people's minds to mean that higher octane in any engine means more timing and more power. It doesn't. No. Octane is a measure of the fuel's resistance to self-ignition (think diesel engine). The flame front speed (burn rate) is for all intents and purposes identical for gasoline, and the energy content is also very close, with higher octane being slightly lower. Lower octane fuel has a lower self-ignition point, meaning that in the presence of oxygen it will spontaneously start and support the chemical conversion we know as combustion at a lower temperature and/or pressure. As the piston is coming up the bore, the spark (at let's say 30 degrees BTDC) starts a small kernel of combustion that ideally moves outward in a uniform and predictable front that eventually consumes the A/F mixture. The ideal is to have peak cylinder pressure at about 10-12 degrees ATDC, and the initial timing for each engine is set to get that result. Okay, the spark has ignited the mixture and the piston is still compressing the mixture as it is burning. The result of the compression and also the combustion is a precisely timed and controlled rise in pressure and temperature in the cylinder. If the pressure and temperature get high enough, the part of the mixture that hasn't burned yet lights off all at once (self-ignition) and the sudden burn causes a pressure spike violent enough that the metal cylinder walls ring (pinging). This is detonation, same idea as a bomb going off. If the spark is too soon, the earlier initiation of the sequence can raise the pressure enough to cause detonation in an engine that otherwise would be fine with a particular level of octane. Adding octane will help with that but the engine power will be lower than optimum because of the negative work that occurs caused by the extra force against the rising piston. This is why more timing and higher octane does not give you more power in an otherwise stock engine on pump gas. Pre-ignition is similar to detonation but occurs when there's a hot spot in the chamber that starts a second combustion pattern under conditions that normally wouldn't occur. This too causes a pressure spike and pinging; similar result but different cause, so everyone please make a note to not mix them up or call either of these "pre-detonation" or whatever. Turbo engines love high octane. That's about the only limit to producing power with a turbo (well, a few other components) so unless there's a boost limit, pump gas is the best way to keep that genie in the bottle. One could question whether higher than stock boost levels should be allowed but that's another topic. The other side of the question is whether the stock EFI system on the turbo is capable of keeping an otherwise stock engine alive under the rigors of racing; quite likely that most factory turbo system were tuned with short spurts of boost in mind, so I wouldn't be at all surprised if they need race fuel on a stock engine at stock boost levels to survive endurance racing. If someone has more questions about the whys and wherefores, just ask.
  3. Spindles are a suspension part, not a brake part. Putting it in with brakes is a pretty strained interpretation and should be stopped.
  4. Rebuild or heck NO?

    So much easier with a GM car that started off as a parts shelf build from the factory:
  5. Aluminum Radiators

    Nope, no components added to the vehicle. Look up how a coolant-to-oil cooler works.
  6. Rebuild or heck NO?

    A Northstar is bigger than an LS engine:
  7. Aluminum Radiators

    The oil cooler is part of the stock engine so it would be a modification to eliminate it; not allowed by the old or current swap rule, and neither is mixing and matching of old and new engine components. It's also a bolt-in engine so stock Fiero engine mounts, no headers because the stock manifolds that came with the engine fit the chassis, etc. so no free poop.
  8. What are your failures?

    My apologies, I was thinking butt connectors. Yes, I prefer to use those but I call them weatherpacks.
  9. What are your failures?

    No puzzled looks out there for the NCATS solution?
  10. What are your failures?

    Then again, crimps do exactly that, crimp the base material and cause a point load and fulcrum point ... The main thing is to leave some slack and support the loom properly so that the solder or crimp doesn't carry a load.
  11. What are your failures?

    Which reminds me: weirdest failure due to wiring. The NCATS car ended up in the wall at Mosport and had an underhood fire. We had another race coming up out there so had a local race shop repair it and prep it. Got to the next event (Toronto) and had fuses blowing during practice and not much time to fix it. Ran out of fuses and needed that circuit, so gambled and put a solid piece in. Yup, driver called in with plastic smell and we had a small electrical fire behind the dash but we got our practice session in. We had two hours before qualifying so I rewired the burnt up dash wiring. We were inside the building for our cold pits so we had to line up inside and push to the door, then fire up and go out for qualifying. The driver was getting pretty edgy as we got closer and closer to the door while I was still wiring. Not a big problem as I had a pretty good indicator of how much time I had to finish up but he was nervous. The last car ahead of us pulled out as I was climbing out and we had just enough time to get him belted in to get the go sign to fire up. Everything worked and that wiring stayed that way for the next three years. The problem? I had been thinking about it while wiring and had one of the guys pull the plug on the rad fan before Q. No more fuse blowing; reversed the leads on the rad fan and all was good. While fixing the front end wiring from the engine fire, the other shop had wired the rad fan and the brake duct fans into one circuit and wired the rad fan backwards.
  12. What are your failures?

    I've seen a few on cars and they're usually where the issue is. Mostly trailer lights getting wired in, usually loose and corroded.
  13. What are your failures?

    Tend to disagree, probably more problems from butt connectors than from poor soldering techniques. Three steps: 1. Good physical connection: strip enough wire to wrap around each other a couple of times to make it hard (relatively) to pull apart. 2. Solder middle of wrapped wire, waiting for the nice shiny solder to turn dull before moving the wires. 3. Heat shrink tubing with the inner adhesive liner; enough to cover and support the wires for about 1/4" worth of insulation on each end. No failures that I know of to date.
  14. Rebuild or heck NO?

    I would consider up to 0.030" overbore the same as stock, very little to be gained with a couple more cubic inches.
  15. Rebuild or heck NO?

    Time to address that question; I'm willing to bet there are more than a couple engines out there with aftermarket pistons in them.