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About notbob

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  1. Racecast.me is ending its service as it currently stands on Dec 31 2017. I would suggest to download any videos you want to keep before then. Apparently the platform has been sold to a non-disclosed racing series. The question will be will they allow just anyone to use it like current, perhaps let anyone use it for a fee, or just keep it for their series?? So, lets go worst case and it's gone. What is the next best option for live streaming??
  2. Thom is a great guy Paul! Great driver and would put him in any car, anywhere.
  3. Personal insurance

    Fixed... lol
  4. Personal insurance

    A lot of insurance policies will not cover sports related deaths or injuries, such as racing, sky diving, etc... Luckily mine does. They do not check insurance... As a car owner, I couldn't care less whether you have insurance or not... As a renter, before you get in my car, you sign a lengthy rental contract, most of the length re-enforcing that you are racing, you could die, you could be killed because of your own actions or others, etc... and that you and your relatives release me from anything. This was drawn and reviewed yearly by a personal injury lawyer that has personally won multi millions of dollars in several cases successfully suing Bombardier (ski/sea doo), so I am pretty confident in it. Additionally you are renting from my LLC which has 1 asset... the car. Also, you sign a waiver when entering the track. Technically, that waiver not only covers the track, it also covers the drivers, car owners, etc... as it basically states you might die and you know it. Racing is a dangerous sport. While overall history in CCWS and others is good, it doesn't mean that at any time something, your fault or not, may go wrong. Hope this helps some... Be safe, have fun!
  5. Nelson Ledges

    Longest Day of Nelson, 24 Hours of Nelson... neither are a valid Trademark in any shape or form... its fair game, regardless of what Amy says... I know how these things work... The logo... that is a copyright thing, so agreed there, can't use the exact logo... but as long as it changes 10% or more... fair game...
  6. We found on the E36, we would go through them (RP2) in a race or so. We switched to the PFC 08's and got multiple races. Wouldn't run anything else on the BWM. If you can get PFC 08's, I would. On the FWD, we were running RP2 and they were ok - lasted around 2 races. At the recommendation from Mark at Frozen Rotors, we switched over to RS43 pads for the FWD and I like them much better than the RP2. They last 3-4 races (of course that depends on the track...) My opinion - PFC 08 if you can get them, then either the RS43 if you can get those or the RP2. I think any of the above 3 would be ok and far better than the XP08, 10 or 12.
  7. RV ownership class A

    Personally, all I ever really do is check tire air pressure, replace oil as needed (engine and generator) and grease all the zerks, winterize as needed and then check the basics each year like fuel filter, radiator fluid, brake pads, brake and power steering fluid and check the air filter. For me and the 3v Ford V10, there really isn't much maintenance at all... As long as the fluids and such look good, move on
  8. RV ownership class A

    I've got a 2008, 36' with the Ford V10 3 valve. Have class 3/4 hitch with a 6000lb setup on an extended ball mount and a brake controller. As long as I hold it around 70mph, I can get around 10-12 mpg. Pulling trailer its around 8-10. Never even know the trailer is back there - until you go to turn and realize you are as long as a semi trailer... Its a breeze to drive. Maintenance - we bought it used in Oct 14 with 24K on it. I flushed the trans, torque converter, radiator. Changed the oil/filter, checked the diff, changed the gas filter, ran injector cleaner through the first tank, greased the 9-12 zerks and checked the brakes. Put on 6 new tires, replaced the main battery and the 2 6v coach batteries from Sams club (about 300 for all 3) The only maintenance I have needed to do is give it a good cleaning (including roof) at the end of each season and touch up any caulk with self leveling. I change the oil with Mobile 5/30 and a motorcraft filter every 3k - which is usually twice a year. Change the generator oil/filter once a year and start it once a month for 20 minutes when it isn't winterized. During winter, I fill the lines full of RV antifreeze, put in stabilizer in the fuel tank and mothballs around in the closets, etc.... Costs me about $25 to winterize it. I've had it from Ohio down to the southern keys and all around. No real other maintenance that has needed to be done. If you get a used one, check the roof and all seams well. Look at the interior roof and edges, around the windows, etc... to make sure you don't see any leak issues and test the air conditioners, heater, water heater, fridge. Check the plumbing lines, all the lights, outlets, etc... Test the levelers and the awning - and the slide outs. DO NOT GET ONE WITH A FORD V10 2 valve... (Which was generally found before 2007) that is my personal opinion - but they had lots of issues, including blowing out spark plugs and a few other coil type issues. Since 2007, the 3 valve had all those issues fixed. Check the tire pressures cold, before ea trip. Ideally, load the thing up and find a grain elevator or scale that you can run the fronts over, then the whole thing, then the rear and look at the card on the RV to make sure you are not overloading an axle. This is a good link http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-care-maintenance.aspx Read up on stuff on the left. Also, don't go by the MFG on the air pressure settings. Look at your weight and look at the Goodyear tire inflation chart and set your pressure based on that. For instance, Ford F53 chassis that I am on says 80lbs, but my ideal based on goodyear and the weight is 95. The tires can go up to 110 cold I believe, but 95 feels good and doesn't squat. I really like ours and do very little to it and it treats us well! Any questions, let me know.
  9. Dodge 2.4 Engine

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_1.8,_2.0_%26_2.4_engine#2.4_and_2.4_Turbo 2,360 cc (144 cu in) 2,429 cc (148.2 cu in) Turbo
  10. Looking for something like this below... Need to replace my current one. Can grab them off of ebay, but figured I would check and see if anyone here had one they want to get rid of? Thanks!
  11. ^^ This. We ran Rotella. Not knocking it at all, but we burned oil every race. After rebuild, switched to Mobile 1 15/50 from walmart and k&n filter. Usually around $22 for the jug. Change oil/filter every race. Oil pressures are spot on to scientific post. Usually after idle and 190 water temp, psi is around 25-30. Jumps up to 45-50 or so at full throttle and drops to 15 or so here and there based on corners, etc... Stock pan, pickup, pump. 4.5 quarts with filter. It works for us. Its what we ran in the bmw e36 325is too and similar results. Never burnt a drop and always looked great at change.
  12. Apparently is 98 and up... all for the low price of $8+ a gallon... looks like I will be going to the gas station outside the track for some "cheap" 93. Lol. Thanks for the replies!
  13. Quick question for those that ran Daytona... Any idea what the track price was on 93? Thanks!
  14. Agreed! We did this.. was like $225 for the studs and new nuts which about made me sick, but never had an issue with them after and was well worth it in the end. We would cold torque to 80 and at first stop, check them at 65. Never checked them again after that first stop and they always clicked at 65 hot...