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Ssierra91

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About Ssierra91

  1. Still for sale. Will take $3,000 OBO for it all.
  2. I'm deploying and moving shortly after I return, so I'm selling my team's car. The car is located in Wheatland, California. For the same reasons, I'm also selling the other race car that we picked up (1983 Porsche 944) (See that ad/post for details on that car). The original rotary on this car was replaced with a 1.6L 1991 Miata engine and transmission! This car absolutely excels at braking and cornering. It's light and very forgiving. Its braking has been one of the best on the track every race we've done. My team has always been able to finish in the top half with this car, or at least mid-pack (both in class and overall). The car has also finished every race it’s entered (3 2-day weekend races in 2017 - Chuckwalla, Sonoma, Laguna Seca). There is some impact damage on the passenger side, resulting in slightly increased negative camber, however, we saw no uneven tire wear at the last Laguna Seca race. The car comes is equipped with the following: -Oil cooler -Brand new fuel pump (1 race) -New Spark Plugs and Wires (1 race) -Brand new OEM rear shocks (1 race) -New Tien lowering springs (2 races)(will include originals) -Upgraded front sway bar -Turbo (GTU) big brakes (from turbo model RX7) -Custom strut tower reinforcement bar -Full fire suppression system -Panoramic rear-view racing mirror -Engine kill switch -Window net -Full roll cage including NASCAR style door bars -Racing seat and 5 point racing harness (not expired) -Removable steering wheel -Extra set of wheels -New set of front and rear EBC YellowStuff brake pads (still in box, uninstalled) -New Light Bar for night racing (In box, never opened) The car was in the process of being upgraded with a turbo for the ChumpCar race at Laguna Seca in July 2017. While it was successfully installed and run for a few test laps, we ran into issues that caused us to have to convert the engine back to natural aspiration in order to be able to reliably race for the weekend. Long story short...we didn't have the right part for the turbo oil feed and the turbo manifold gasket that was installed was of poor quality and blew out. The car is still in the naturally aspirated configuration and will come with the turbo kit parts for the next owner who may have more time to test and troubleshoot the setup before taking it to a race. In keeping with the spirit of cheap racing, I essentially procured individual turbo items online from eBay and BEGI in order to mirror BEGI's Shanghai Turbo setup (low boost 5psi setup with adjustable fuel pressure regulator). According to BEGI, this type of setup allows for a turbo to be installed and run under low boost with stock internals and no intercooler required. Turbo parts included: -BEGI Adjustable Aftermarket Turbo and Supercharger Fuel Pressure Regulator (http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=7_76&products_id=4) -Innovate MTX-L Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit (Wideband O2 sensor and gauge that is already installed and wired) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3844 -JDM T25/T28 eBay turbo w/ 5 Psi integral wastegate installed -Extra 7Psi integral wastegate -Log style cast iron manifold -Intercooler piping and fittings -Steel braided turbo water lines -Steel braided turbo oil inlet line -Turbo oil outlet hose (Oil pan on Miata engine already drilled and fitted with hose. Hose is plugged in its current configuration but easily attached back to a turbo) -Cone style air intake filter with adapter piece to use with stock 1.6L Air Flow Meter -Turbo intercooler piping Blow Off Valve -Various other fittings/parts from tinkering/ creating the turbo build -Turbo gauge, already installed and wired in the cockpit (just run the vacuum line if using the turbo) -Manifold/ exhaust heat wrap If installing turbo components, timing will need to be retarded to prevent knock under boost (as little boost as it may be). The BEGI regulator is already dialed in and is as simple as plug and play. The engine leaks a bit of oil and always has...it's a LeMons car. Also, the water temperature gauge turned off and stopped working toward the end of the last race at Laguna Seca. I have not had the chance to diagnose it yet but it may be as simple as a loose wire to the gauge, or at most, something needing replacing. The car did not have any overheating issues for the multiple hours after the gauge stopped working. Plenty of other pictures available if interested. The car is available for viewing (location is Wheatland, California) and I can answer any other questions that you may have. Feel free to contact me via email at Ssierra91@gmail.com!
  3. My buddies and I were only able to run it through one race so here's a list of what we recognized from that experience. 1. The gas tank is not modified for high speed pit stop fueling, just stock fuel refuel port with metal flapper. We had much slower than necessary fueling with noticeable fuel spillage as a result. Some modification should fix that. 2. We noticed excessive tire wear on the inside of one of the sides of the car that was inconsistent with the other side. So it needs some alignment work. 3. The rear hatch has the stock gas springs on it which are very strong to hold open that full glass hatch. The hatch lock mechanism would pop open on a big bump or an off. This would lead to the car driving around with the rear hatch full up until the force of the air pushing from over the car caught the hatch spoiler and slowly latched it down. Funny enough, it always did so in such a slow and controlled manner (even latching back down) that it almost looked intentional. 4. There is no e-brake...if that's really an issue. 5. We had a bumpy off near the end of the race that caused the distributor housing to back out of the engine block. This caused an oil leak that we assessed was from the camshaft seal meeting with where the distributor was. The reason the distributor completely separated was due to poor prior mechanical work and oversight on our part to not see that the screws weren't bolted into the engine block. I replaced the camshaft seal and bolted the distributor to the engine properly. 6. We finished mid pack in our class and overall. Like dead center. But we are competitive and would have liked to have seen more power from the car. I just ran a compression test and here are the results: Cylinder 1: 152 Cylinder 2: 159 Cylinder 3: 160 Cylinder 4: 161 7. The original motor in the car blew up. The current motor is an '86 according to the guy I bought it from. I have no idea what the spare engine looks like. I never bothered to unwrap all the plastic covering it since it was basically a freebie from the guy I bought it from. That's all I can think of. I hope it helps! -Sergio
  4. I'm deploying soon and have no need of storing this car over the next year. Nobody else on the team can store it, so we're looking to get rid of it. This 1983 Porsche 944 was recently run at a Lucky Dog Racing event at Willow Springs the weekend of 5 May 2017. We never found the time to get it out to a ChumpCar race. The previous owner ran it in LeMons, so yeah, there are lemons all over it as well as some other random stuff that could should probably be scrubbed off.Before we ran the latest race in the 944, we did a lot of work to it to include:-New Duralast Gold battery-New G-Force 6 Point Racing Harness-New Window Net assembly-New Timing Belt Job (to include new sprockets, water pump, kevlar timing belt, balance shaft belt, thermostat)-New Front Camshaft Seal-New Oil Filter (now 1 race old)-New Oil (now 1 race old)The car is modified for reliability with its installed Accusump. The 944 has a cherry bomb exhaust, adjustable front shocks, engine kill switch, full roll-cage to include NASCAR style door bars, all necessary gauges, wiring for radios, and a digital tachometer with shift indicator lights. The car would need a fire suppression system to be legal for ChumpCar. The engine kill switch may or may not be in accordance with the laws of ChumpCar. It's mechanical (uses cables) and the rules speak only of electrical kill switches. Lucky Dog didn't mind. The car comes with 2 sets of wheels.-1 Set of original Porsche rims-1 Set of aftermarket rimsThere are tires mounted on the 2 sets of wheels already, and between the two sets, there are 2 race ready Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R, and 2 race ready Hankook Ventus R-S3. There are also 2 mounted BFGoodrich G-Force Rival that are in good enough condition for practice. 2 sets of spare tires come with the car.-There is one set of 4 slightly used Yokohama AVS ES100 tires-There is one set of 5 used Toyo Proxes RA1 The 944 also comes with:-A SPARE ENGINE (received wrapped from the previous seller and I have not opened it up to look at it) -A SPARE TRANSAXLE-A spare front quarter panel-Spare rear racing brake pads-Tons and tons of boxes of other spares (probably enough spares to replace almost anything in the engine bay) -Rods, pistons, and other internals that were cannibalized from a blown 944 engine. I haven't done much research into the car's point value per ChumpCar rules but it should be within the 500 point limit. The only thing I see being a possible issue would be the adjustable front shocks which are valued at 75pts/ corner. If the car was close to breaking 500 points, then modifying the shocks should take care of any points issue. Please contact me with any questions or if you would like any more information. Additional pictures available. Asking $3,500 but am willing to accept best offers. Car is located in the Sacramento, California area.
  5. Thoughts on newer video cameras?

    Another alternative, albeit on the higher end of the cost spectrum, is Sony's latest to compete with Go-Pro. I've gotten incredible results with my Sony Action Cam FDR-X3000. I tested it out at the Chuckwalla race a few weeks back and it delivered very smooth and steady 4K video for the life of the battery at 4K runtime (~48 minutes). Pretty good GPS data too. I need to get it plugged into a power source next time... It has built in optical stabalization that's comparable to a gimbal, without the need to spend a lot of money on one. No more shaky video or need to edit out shakiness! You'll need a larger memory card with class 3 speeds in order to take advantage of its 100mbps bit rate, and a power source to keep it running until the storage fills up. Then again, with a 128GB card and a resolution that's still HD, I think you'd still be able to store the majority of a race as long as the camera stays plugged in!
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